I’ve been aware of the name Chris Morris ever since I pulled the cork on my first bottle of Woodford Reserve Bourbon. The vessel itself is an exercise in restraint, bearing only scant traces of the product’s origins, but down in the bottom corner of the little tan label is the signature of master distiller Morris.
That’s not a new trick. It’s nice marketing and it says, ‘I am so proud of this bottle, have such faith in its contents, that I am happy to put my name to it.’ From a marketing perspective it constitutes evidence. A statement of fact: why wouldn’t you buy this brand? Why wouldn’t you drink it?
And so we come to the crux of the matter. Why am I telling you about Chris Morris, the man behind the signature, when there are countless other distillers, vintners, brewers, all just as willing to attest to the quality of their product by scribbling their name on it?
I suppose I might have picked another. There are scores of success stories in the drinks industry, no paucity of leading lights in a global market that’s worth a trillion dollars annually. But the point is: I love this stuff. As bourbon goes it’s one of the finest I’ve tasted, and although I’m not a drinks writer, I think it only appropriate that I make at least some semblance of an attempt to describe it to you. You need to understand that much. You need to taste it and smell it, I think, to understand the man who creates it. Also, it’s a good excuse to enjoy a glass as I write.
I’m pretty sure that when I first tried this bourbon I detected in it a delicate nuance of something like soft candy–maybe orange or strawberry fondant. But it was a tantalizing thing, not much more than a suggestion, because as I recall there were so many other little flavours, all jostling for recognition on my palate. Anyway as I take a sip now, anticipating the little burst of something intangible to manifest itself yet again, it doesn’t come. There is that delivery of oak that you get with all half decent bourbons, and in this case I’m talking about fresh-hewn timbers, the source of the wood they use to make the barrels, not the vessels themselves. There’s definitely a soft aroma of vanilla pods as if I’ve just prized open a crate fresh from Madagascar, and maybe a touch of leather as well, and some kind of spice that I can’t categorise. But that fondant aroma is hiding. I should know really, because with this particular bourbon it doesn’t come straight away. This is a whiskey to be savoured and doted on. It won’t give up its secrets to the brash. So I take my time, extend it the patience it deserves, gently inhale the scent before submitting it to my palate and there, after a moment or two, is the fragrance and flavour I’m waiting for. Oranges, strawberries, a delicate melee of candied fruit which just barely infer themselves upon my senses.
As I said, I don’t pretend to be an expert, but I know what I like and to understand the man, we must investigate the product, right? Or perhaps you’d prefer to have it from someone who knows what they’re talking about..
“I think complexity and balance are the two attributes that differentiate a great bourbon from all others,” Chris obliges. “A bourbon that has a balance of fruit, floral, spice, grain, wood and sweet aromatic components will satisfy every palate’s flavour expectations. The ultimate test for me is whether a bourbon can be enjoyed neat at the presentation proof. And then, during subsequent tastes, does it reveal more and varied flavour experiences. That is the mark of a great bourbon.”
And this is the mark of a promising interview. I don’t know if you’ve noticed, but Chris hasn’t once mentioned his own product by name. I shouldn’t be surprised, because so far all of my guests have proven to be appealingly impartial. Perhaps they’re used to being quizzed on their particular publications, performances, releases, products and shows, rather than being led back to the origins of their passion. Maybe I’m giving them a little bit of a break from the usual PR exercise. I hope so. In any case, speaking of origins, I want to know how Chris got involved with bourbon.
“I was exposed to the bourbon industry at an early age due to my parents’ involvement. My father and mother had both worked at Brown-Forman [owner of twenty-five brands within the wine and spirits sector, including Woodford Reserve]. As a youngster I remember going to the Old Forester Distillery on weekends. While Dad worked in the office I played in the distillery. Once I was old enough I became an intern for the Master Distiller for four years. So joining the business as an adult seemed like a no-brainer to me.”
The position of Master Distiller is one Chris has fulfilled for the better part of twenty years, so to say he knows a thing or two about bourbon is an understatement. On top of his hands on role at the distillery, Chris also serves as ambassador for Brown-Forman, so his skills are as respected as they are revered in the drinks industry. And yet, with such a catalogue of achievement to his name, he defines success in succinct, accessible terms.
“Success is a hard concept to define,” he considers. “Is it doing the best you can and being satisfied with the results, or do the results have to be gold medal calibre? Personally I feel that doing the best job we can and hearing from even one consumer that they love our product is success enough for me.”
The end goal might be simple. It’s certainly admirable. But as Chris explains, you have to be fluid in your approach to success.
“When a person sets out in pursuit of their life goal they must be open to the fact that their goal may change. Life throws so many curve balls and surprises at you that you may discover that your life’s goal is not what you had originally planned. Sometimes you have to “go with the flow” and make that work for you.”
I’m not sure if it’s my imagination, but I swear this glass of Woodford Reserve is the best one I’ve had. Perhaps it’s to do with absorbing the flavours at the same time as absorbing the words of its creator, which I must confess is a new experience for me. But of those creations, which is Chris most proud of?
“I am most proud of our new product success. This includes the Woodford Reserve Rye and Double Oaked expressions. Each at the time they were being developed were risky business models but have turned out to be very successful.”
Yes, about the Double Oaked…I’ve seen it gracing the shelves of my local supermarket, but at another twenty quid on top of the price of the Reserve, I’m going to have to find a good excuse to splash out: remember, I’m not a drinks writer. I don’t get freebies! Second best option? Ask the man himself.
“Woodford Reserve Double Oaked is like drinking a bourbon dessert. It is extremely rich, full-bodied and has an aroma and flavour dominated by butterscotch, maple syrup and dark chocolate notes. All of these come from finishing Woodford Reserve in a second barrel, the Double Oaked barrel. The Double Oaked barrel is heavily toasted and lightly charred on the interior. We finish fully matured Woodford Reserve in the Double Oaked barrel for no less than six months and no longer than twelve.”
The words of a professional they may be, but I’m sold.
For more about Chris Morris and his passion, go to www.woodfordreserve.com
You can find him on Facebook at facebook.com/woodfordreserve and Twitter @woodfordreserve
My thanks to Chris for his time and enthusiasm, and also to Kasey Allgeier for her assistance in arranging this interview.